High Protection
5351 " Pour Les Hommes et Pour Les Femmes ", certainly with more of an emphasis on "les femmes", brings us a highly protective and decidedly futuristic collection for fall-winter 99/2000. We will face the winter chill equipped with quilted jackets, pea coats and snowsuits that are reinforced at the elbows, wrists, collars and derrières, outfitted with high collars, integrated hoods and enveloping knit capes. The materials and technical treatments have been conceived to provide a maximum degree of protection, but in a most creative manner that highlights volume and texture: we find acrylic facings, lamination, quilting, polyurethane stuffing. The practical details are designed to emphasize style with multiple large pockets, sleeves which cover the hands, belt/bags incorporated in the clothing, removable sleeves and collars, dresses with velcro closures and various drawstrings. Even the boots have stuffing. But the designer also uses the most traditional materials in very modern ways: fur appears in appliqués on long zippered vests, in a shaved version on chest pieces and as trimming on unusual coats (or coat-dresses?) with a large back panel/cape and ponchos. Lizard skin is also used in a futuristic manner. Wide gauge and chiffon stitch knits are adopted for transformable capes and vests. All of these creations are worn with tight-fitting pants, wraparound skirts and stretch Turkish pants. A monochromatic color scheme is de rigueur: black, white and titanium grey, with occasional touches of bright red and fluorescent shades on the linings of white capes.
Virginie Transon
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