Gender neutral
Walter van Beirendonck doesn't like being pigeonholed into traditional genders: neither masculine nor feminine, he conserves the essence of humanity with his ambiguous third gender, a genre of its own. Based on experimentation, his collection forges entirely new paths and has its foundation in reflections on the integral structure and function of clothing, and how these may be transcended. This sometimes involves creating hybrids, such as blending a poncho with a jacket, raincoat, shirt or t-shirt. These open tops preserve a shirt collar, buttonhole facings and chest pockets, and are held in place by criss-crossing straps around the neck. Another exploration, a continuation of a theme first examined last winter, involves jackets and parkas without fasteners or closures but with a whalebone structure which preserves the article's volume and dimension, even on the hanger. Next comes a series of jackets conceived following a "kite" principle, with two panels which surround the chest or are raised in the back. These resemble a tent-like structure or backpack-esque growth on the back. The nylon "hot plates" stretched over a wicker frame evoke protective shields worn by African hunters against savage lion attacks. These may also be worn backward, but the vision is impaired. On an ethnic note are skintight t-shirts and shorts charged with hand-sewn crochet and embroidery, loosely-woven or multicolored striped tunics with long fringe. These are worn with coordinating crocheted masks. The color palette is full of bright, tonic, acidic shades, a welcome change from neutrals, grey and black and white. These colors (soft or shocking pink, scarlet or cherry red, raspberry, electric blue, sky blue, nude, orange, chocolate, violet, bright or foresty green, lemon yellow...) are blended or used monochromatically.
Virginie Transon
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