bound in freedom
Geoffrey B Small's spring-summer 2000 collection effectively perpetuates the American designer's fascination with recycled, mutable fashion. He concretely affirms his style with this collection, which is strong and coherent. We find various zippers that allow pants to be transformed into bermuda shorts, separate the line of a dress shirt's double collar, or which zig zag across t-shirts and shirts, creating unusual openings. Drawstrings provide mutability for pants or t-shirts, which may either be pulled up to create folds or left straight. The designer's clever, practical details are plentiful in this newest collection. For example, those who haven't completely mastered the proper use of the necktie and may have abandoned the use of this archetypical accessory could find a new use for it by slipping the article through the slits, intended specifically for this effect, in the collection's t-shirts. The large net pockets on t-shirts, also with drawstring closures, may be used to carry cell phones or other such articles. One might otherwise opt for the mobile sack-pockets, which may be attached to t-shirts or belts, or the pouches made from recycled fabric, which are worn over the shoulder. Various strap closures are also useful to add to or transform an article, or simply to cinch the waist of a jacket. Pants and short pants that reach below the knee reflect an urban marriage of colors and materials, with alternately mounted bands of beige, kakhi, navy blue, putty or taupe. White shirts are decorated with contrasting appliqués and frayed denim panels are added to the bottoms of pullovers. Topstitching creates a textured panel on the front of t-shirts. Various articles feature silkscreened prints of a surprised baby ? the motif of the season ? or an open book. The parkas, which are either long or short, are large and airy.
Virginie Transon
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