Variable geometry
For Pierre Cardin's latest collection, Sergio Altieri rejuvenates a style which has for decades insightfully played with volume and geometry to create ultra-modern feminine silhouettes. The spiral pleats on the knee-length skirts and dresses create a voluminous bubble effect while preserving the line of the silhouette. These are worn with short, straight spencers or jackets with edging and twisted pleats on the back. For colder weather, we hesitate between a spectacular shaggy black and white coat, a black wool cloth coat with stripes of white fur along the back, coats lined with coated materials, a simple, straight pleated coat with geometric leather appliqués, or a tweed coat with large aluminum closures. The pants are either short, reaching just below the knee for a sporty look, or else very long and large, soft and unstructured. For evening there is a trouser tuxedo with sequin and fur piping, gaucho style. There are also sheath dresses with asymmetrical collars or spiral crinoline crests, stoles and dresses with long fringe, various dresses, including one knee-length dress with a diamond shape cut, with open backs decorated with alternating strips of giant red and black ribbons, dresses with small, rustling triangular or half-moon shaped wings lined with bordeaux-colored fabric, large moiré skirts with reflective ruby red or steely silver effects or silver knit twists. The show ended with the bride in a spectacular dress made of floating white spirals, an eternal symbol of femininity.
Virginie Transon
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