Organic complexity
For fall-winter 99/2000 Maurizio Galante proposes an impressive and completely original collection that reveals a delicate, intricate work in the cut and in the unique assemblages of materials. Large felt sweaters feature geometric, origami, arrow or zig-zag cut-outs which reveal the acidic colors of the t-shirt dresses worn underneath. He contrasts black scaly materials, organza or felt on knit tops, and PVC acetate circles and triangles on wool dresses The designer recycles monkey, beaver or seal fur and crocodile skin and lines them with gold fabric for his oversized jackets worn over round skirts or skirts assembled from felt ribbons. His natural leather skirts close with a simple metal buckle. Red, green or indigo silk chiffon saris are warmed up with jean jackets decorated with gold embroidery or appliqués of gold cylinders. Evening dresses are assembled from organza ribbons in subtly degrading tones, layers of organza leaves form boleros and cape/coats worn over pleated or Hakama skirts. In addition to this complex organic and graphic architecture, the collection pays homage to childhood with raised cartoon motifs on small white t-shirts and bunny or kitten scarves in pink or lemon yellow felt, worn over pleated silk taffeta evening dresses.
Virginie Transon
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