A master and his materials
In his headquarters on rue de Braque, Gilles Rosier presented his original and elegant new collection. The designer's manner of working with materials, especially knits, is astonishing. His collection includes blue pullovers with sparkling quartz, ecru turtlenecks in thick, textured knit, sweaters with irregular or knotted ribbing around the collar and blends with varying tensions. These turtlenecks were paired with long skirts in crepe or chic boiled wool, low-hanging oversized pants or pants with subtle draping on one leg. Draping was a leitmotiv of the collection, and it appeared on tops and the collars of coats. Dresses and skirts with herringbone pleats make a comeback, and the dresses often feature drawstrings, which add to the pleated and draped effects. Sweaters and tops have very high collars, sometimes erasing the line of the shoulders. There were also large shawl-scarves with muff pockets and long, turtleneck chest pieces for extra warmth. As an indication of an evolving trend drawing on sportswear elements, we discovered studded leather tunics, hooded jackets in coated fabric, kangaroo pockets and oversized garments with a couture touch.
Virginie Transon
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