Deceptive provocateur
Russian designer Valentin Yudashkin has become a well-known name on the Parisian haute couture circuit. His fall-winter 99-2000 collection is, as usual, devoted to women who don't like to go unnoticed. The line is based on cleverly deceptive trompe l'oeil for day and sexy provocation for evening wear. A very masculine-feminine daytime theme includes Borsalino-style strict pinstripe suits with shirt and necktie which unexpectedly reveal the body with halter tops, sexy vests or invisible skin-toned netting. A long velvet dress hides an imitation of a jacket lapel on the lower back. A false overcoat opens to reveal a tulle veil with embroidered tattoos. Explosive red is used for mink coats, suits with fitted corset-style jackets or a crocodile coat lined with white mink. A Mongolian lambswool sweater worn with black rabbit fur pants and a bead and feather-covered pantsuit are quite spectacular. There is a beautiful suede dress, and fur is used for a mink blouse and in decorative touches on evening dresses. Ostrich feathers, birds of paradise, crystal beads and leather fringe adorn jackets and dresses. Skin-revealing burned-out taffeta or lace evening dresses are embroidered with ribbon, organza, feathers, leather or fur. The embroidered skin-toned tulle dresses seem to magically stay on the body. The designer is inspired by unusual materials such as rhodoid spirals for a bustier, sculpted latex, paper and bands of plastic.
Virginie Transon
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