A promenade through an enchanted jungle
To be sure, there are numerous details inspired from sportswear: drawstrings on sleeves, cuffs and pockets, hooded tops, jackets and shirt-jackets, various slits and cut-outs, kangaroo pockets or pockets on the upper thigh, tie closures, etc. But the impeccable cut that liberates the body while subtly underlining the silhouette, the perfect seams and the original details all betray a refined and elegant high-fashion background. Various clever details include slits at the shoulders, dresses, tunics and pants with asymmetrical hemlines, the dewdrop shape of a little backless top, wide pants, unexpected volume at the bottom of the short dresses and the way in which the materials are used. The fabrics are extremely sophisticated: cotton muslin, organza, silk chiffon, supple polyamide-viscose and treated linen... all accentuated by special finishes such as pleats, wrinkles, chenilles and metallic fabrics or materials that change hues. Following the "enchanted jungle" theme -- where barefoot fairies run around on tiptoe -- the collection was bursting with color, a welcome change! The show, Kemp's second, started out with designs in light, bleached-out shades, but these were soon followed by a large and varied palette of greens, sometimes in faded vegetable prints, violet, mauve and fuchsia (in metallic materials, and sometimes with changing undertones) and finally rich, warm shades of orange. One of Ralph Kemp's favorite motifs, the spider, was featured in giant prints on certain pieces.
Virginie Transon
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