Authentic sophistication
Simple without being austere, with an extra touch of insolence, Michel Klein's comfortable and modern collection borrows freely from the world of menswear while remaining eloquently feminine and elegant. The designer reappropriates pieces from work wear and sportswear, interpreting them in his own manner. His overalls in fine-grain fabric, even when paired with a tank top, are far from evoking a construction zone. The alpaca sailor's sweaters, pea jackets in high-tech materials and military coats, worn with long jersey skirts, long pleated skirts, or blanket skirts in boiled wool, are reserved for urban adventurers. The stretch flannel pants have a menswear feel but remain ultimately feminine. They are worn with "happy belts", panels crisscrossed with straps that could also be worn as a bustier. The superpositioning of dresses, shirts or coats over pleated skirts, and the layering of double skirts or skirts over tulle petticoats, create long silhouettes. Asian influences are found in the short kimono dresses with sleeves featuring exotic prints and in the Chinese suits. There are ingenious crepe jersey dresses that are transformable thanks to a special strap which may be tied in the back or front, or not at all, as well as interesting looking dresses and sweaters in hand-crocheted velvet lace. Michel Klein also disguises luxury behind simple forms with his use of exquisite, high-quality materials. This is the case with his cashmere or alpaca sweaters, fur-lined cashmere ponchos and fur-trimmed double wool cloth coats. What wasn't very clear was the significance of the show's theme "Without love one is nothing" or the soundtrack featuring Bardot and Gabin in "En cas de Malheur". As for the necklaces composed of flowers, these serve as souvenirs of the faraway island where the designer conceived the collection.
Virginie Transon
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