Christian Lacroix, divas 50
After the reference to the 1940's, Christian Lacroix evokes the 1950's in his Summer 99 collection. The models, outfitted with ballet slippers, wore short jackets with sailor collars and length sleeves over large calf-length skirts, short, oversized kimono jackets with "umbrella" skirts, organza blouses, "egg" coats and suits comprised of straight calf-length skirts and clean shirt-jackets. While the "simultaneously clean yet relaxed" lines took away somewhat from the more reserved spirit of the decade (especially with the grey pepper and salt flambé ensembles shown at the beginning of the show), Christian Lacroix suspends the illusion with his artistic use of prints (multicolored, with tiny impressionistic or large floral designs), lace and embroidery (historical, abstract or floral) and color (a statement against the current trend of monochromatic non-colors). The delicate range of shades includes salmon pink, absinthe, ivory, pink and mauve, spiced up with warmer tones of saffron yellow, fuchsia and coral. Black is also widely used, often in geometric contrasts with white or fuchsia or brightened up with ivory. Bright colors are used in the multicolored striped knits, mixed-up prints, or in touches to liven up shades of black or cream. The luxurious materials are often used in pairs: organzas, moirés, silks and lots of lace and knits, for tops and skirts. For evening, "pleated" sheath dresses reveal the shoulders, as do the long and ample bustier dresses and the large dresses with draped collars.
Virginie Transon
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